Santiago de Compostela: Gearing Up for 2010

You have to climb a lot of stairs to get to the rooftop of the 12th-century cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. And it’s a little scary standing on its slanting granite tiles 79 feet above ground. But the view is incredible. And definitely makes the climb worth it.

The famous cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, is said to be the final resting place of the bones of the famous St. James, and as such is considered the third most important church in Christendom after those in Rome and Jerusalem. For centuries, the faithful have plodded along several major pilgrimage routes just for the chance to worship at this sacred spot.

Today, most folks making the pilgrimage do so for spiritual and adventurous reasons, not Christian or Catholic ones. But their increasing numbers are once again shining a light on the city of Santiago.

Whether you’re a pilgrim or regular visitor, take advantage of the rooftop tour, where you’re treated to riveting views of the historic squares and streets surrounding the cathedral, plus intriguing architectural objects like the Cruz dos Farrapos, or Cross of Rags.

The imposing cross stands sentinel over a rooftop stone font where pilgrims once burned their clothes to signify the discarding of their old life. (Burning the dirty duds they wore for months and even years during their pilgrimage also protected against the spread of various contagious illnesses common among pilgrims–the less-sexy reason for the ritual.)

While Santiago owes its life to its religious roots, there’s certainly more to the city. Food, for one. Santiago is part of Spain’s Galician region, bordered by the Atlantic. These waters provide residents with more than 130 types of fish, including 50-plus varieties of shellfish, meaning menus packed with delicacies like mussels, clams, barnacles and the ubiquitous octopus prepared á feira: sliced, then sprinkled with paprika and salt and topped with olive oil.

And there’s not enough time to even start discussing their wines and cheeses.

In the city’s historic quarter, a maze-like warren of shops and restaurants makes a great way to pass the day. Since the 30,000-student Royal University of Santiago de Compostela is nearby, you’ll find everything from pricey boutiques and fine-dining establishments to student cafes and discount shops here, and, of course, tourist shops selling pilgrimage-themed objects.

When St. James’ July 25th birthday falls on a Sunday, a Holy Year is declared and a variety of additional ceremonies and festivals are held in the city. Since 2010 is a Holy Year–and the next one doesn’t come until 2021–you’d better start practicing your stair climbing.

–Melanie Radzicki McManus, Red Editorial Staff
–Photo by Melanie Radzicki McManus